![]() ![]() HoffmanĮnclosures, panels, hole seals, closure plates, metallic boxes, wireway & troughs. Wiring, bending & pulling tools, cutters, compounds, wire nuts, connectors, terminals & more. Tools, gear, meters & testers, gloves, measures & levels, knives, belts & bags. Bridgeportįittings, conduit connectors, hangers, hardware, clamps, bushings, straps. Light fixtures, lamps, industrial, LED, emergency, exit signs. Advance by SignifyĮlectronic ballasts (LED, HID, sign, etc.), capacitors, ignitors. Various conduit types: EMT, Galvite, IMC, aluminum rigid. Vinyl electrical tape, shrink tube, butt connectors, splices, ties, gloves, sealants, safety. Receptacles, switches, wallplates, bar hangers, plugs, cord connectors & grips. SouthwireĬable, wire, romex, sheathed, armored, bare copper, and flexible & liquidtight conduit. B-Line by Eatonįittings & fastening, framing, wireway, hardware, spring nuts, clamps, enclosures. Various classes & types: barrier, midget, ceramic, glass. Bussmann by Eatonįuses, blocks, accessories. Steel boxes, covers, supports & bar hangers, commercial fittings, hubs & conduit bodies. Wallplates, lamp sockets, receptacles, harnesses, plugs. Housings, recessed cans & downlighting, LED, indoor, outdoor, roadway & industrial. ![]() ABBĮlectrical boxes, struts, channels, fittings, ties, & more. ![]() It uses a 2-pole breaker.Drives, generators, breakers, transfer switches, contacts, coils, sensors, meter sockets. Therefore I have assumed you're dealing with a 240V load like a dryer that uses two (opposite) 110V circuits at the same time to get 240V. Just learn how loads work and act smartly, don't just overload to the point of a house fire. Don't misuse a 30A breaker where a 15A or 20A breaker should be used, like powering common lighting and receptacle circuits. The only legitimate use I have seen is in TT30 sockets for small travel trailers. Wait, did you say 110V?Ī 110/120V circuit that is 30A is extremely rare. Label the socket "GFCI Protected / No Equipment Ground". If you absolutely, insist on wiring it 3-wire without ground, then still use a NEMA 14-30 socket and plug, and fit a 2-pole GFCI breaker in the panel. However, if your appliance comes with a NEMA 6-30 plug, you are allowed to install a NEMA 6-30 receptacle instead of 14-30 it'll be grounded and you won't use the neutral. If you are hooking up a dryer and the dryer came to you with a NEMA 10-30 cord and plug, then change the cord and plug to NEMA 14 while removing the neutral-ground jumper on the dryer. You are not allowed to install the obsolete/dangerous NEMA 10-30 (3-prong) which has no ground. If this is going to a receptacle, it needs to be a NEMA 14-30 (4-prong) type receptacle. Then ground to the panel chassis or a ground bar (which would be empty), you can buy retrofit ground bars for most panels for $5-ish. This happens when the wiring is done in metal conduit, and the grounding is via the metal conduit. In some cases there is a neutral and not a ground bar. DO NOT DO THIS unless you see all other circuits also doing this! In some cases, the neutral bar will be the same thing as the ground bar, and all neutrals and grounds will be clumped onto the same bar. There will be a bunch of other white wires also going to this bar. ![]() The neutral bar is a closely packed row of screws which capture wires underneath them. If it's a 2-pole plain breaker, the neutral goes to the neutral bar.If it's a 2-pole GFCI breaker, the neutral goes to the breaker, and the breaker pigtail goes to the neutral bar. ![]()
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